At the foot of the German Alps

We took the slow train from Regensburg to Füßen, stopping for a lunch (Käsespätzle, of course!) in München. From there, as we went south, the mountains came out of the clouds. The land became more rolling, swiss cows replacing wheat fields, hay sheds dotting green fields. The alps grew taller with every mile, without as much of the hilly preamble that those of us who live near the North Cascades are accustomed to. They are green shouldered and stone toothed, and standing on the top of the nearest shows nothing but spines running east-west as far as the eye can see. We went as far south as we could by train, and stepped off the platform in Füßen, at the foot of the mountains.

Palace Neuschwanstein, Hohenschwangau (knight's castle turned palace), Füßen to the far west

Regensburg, St Paul's Cathedral

We discovered one of my new favorite towns in Germany on a quick stopover from Prague to the Alps. It has all my favorites: Roman gates, a towering cathedral with medieval foundations and Gothic spires, twisting streets, pedestrian bridge from the 1100's that connects a biergarten on one side of the river with the ice cream spot on the other... 

Regensburg across the River

Finding magic in Prague

Prague is one of my favorite cities, and not just because far-away friends often come and wander about with me when I'm there. It is truly a gorgeous city, with gilded theaters and graceful arched bridges, and the thousand spires it is famous for. The one thing I don't care for is the press of tourists, from gangs of Brits on stag parties to flag waving tour group leaders trailing mats of cameras like boats trail millfoil. It is frantic, loud, a press of people. But there is a magic moment in the day, after the sun rises but before the tourists do, when cafés are grinding espresso and shopkeepers flick cigarette butts from their doorsteps with straw brooms. 

the canal on the south side of the river, looking towards the National Theater

Bad Schandau / Schrammsteine Hike

A few months ago, Jon and I started a shared Trello board to brainstorm ideas for our trip. Jon posted a few places that have shown up as backgrounds in my new Chrome tabs (I use Momentum), and one of them was en route from Berlin to Prague. So we left Berlin in the morning and set off for Bad Schandau, gateway to the National Park Sächsische Schweitz, Saxon Switzerland National Park. Our train wound through Dresden and into the Elbe valley, glimpses of sandstone cliffs sometimes cutting through the thickly forested valley. Eventually, we hopped off the train, applied sunscreen, and caught a ferry for a 10 minute cruise upriver to Bad Schandau. 

the Elbe river valley

A quick visit to Berlin

I told Jon to bring walking shoes on this trip, and we set our benchmark early with a walking tour in Berlin. We were only there two nights, with a single full day in the city... according to my pedometer watch, we covered over 15 miles in the warm Berliner sun!

Buckley's solution to hot weather

Friesland

I finally did it, one of the last travel things I've been afraid of. I rented a car and drove in Europe. Granted, we were only in Amsterdam for about 10 minutes, and most of where we spent our time was, as the guy at Enterprise put it, "much slower." It would have been a little faster had I  realized that a passport is required for car rentals and not left mine at home, but fast enough it was. On a raining sideways morning, we finally set off across the Afsluitdijk towards the land of our grandfather's fathers.

Im Schwarzwald Verlaufen (lost in the Black Forest)

Two months ago, tucked into the box of chocolate that arrived as usual from Germany around my birthday, was a little card that read something along the lines of "Credit towards a memorable day." Yesterday I cashed it in for an adventure in the Black Forest with Anne! She planned a hike for us in a beautiful, cliff-lined gorge that proved a little elusive...

Löffingen peaking over the hill... A view we wouldn't have had if we hadn't missed the turn!