Saturday, October 27, 2012

Praha

I'm writing this almost a year after the fact, and my memories of Prague are coming back with a wispy, warm feeling that makes me wish I were there now...
Mom and I got into the airport and took the transit to Hostel Mango on the west side of the _____ river. We dropped our bags and went out to explore the city as dusk fell over it... They call Prague the City of 1000 Spires. That's code for fairytale. Around the corner from where we were staying, there was a city gate that led up the hill to Prague Castle or across the Karluv Most (Charles Bridge) to the center of town. It was love from the first windy street. Wouldn't it be magical in snow?
There was clearly more history in the city than two out-of-towners could take in on their own, so took a walking tour the next morning. We met Kafka, Charles IV, the Soviets, the jews who survived WWII, over a thousand years of architecture, Good King Wenceslas... and so many more. Lunch was an amazing plate of duck and dumplings in a creamy gravy, washed down with a Pils. How good is that?
The afternoon we spent shopping through Prague... so many places to stop :) In the evening we wound up at a wonderful little wine bar that shared a wall with our hostel. For roughly $15, we had a huge plate of bread, cheeses, and meats with oil for dipping and a glass or two of wine with a wonderful background on where everything was from. In the time we sat there, not one table changed. It was the sort of comfortable place that you go with a group of close friends and plan on spending the evening.
Karluv Most
Speaking of friends, they were first on the list in the morning. Petra, Jan, Lucie, and Ales all came in from Ostrava and Brno to spend the day with us and be our guides!! We shivered in Wenceslas Square as the drizzle turned to sleet... turned to almost snow... and then their trains came in. After warming up with pastries and coffee, we wandered through the city. It was so good to see everyone again! We also had a political scientist with us (Ales), so there was almost a continuation from the tour the day before.
Magical view from the castle
Mom and I checked out a snowy Prague Castle while our 4 friends ran errands, and then met back up for dinner at Lokal. The boys had picked it out based on good Czech food and good Czech beer. Yum!


We ended the day with a hike up to Vysehrad castle just south of town. We looked up the river as the lights came on over the city. After many see-you-soons, we hugged goodbye and wandered back to our beds for one last night in Praha.

The trip's final bonus? Air Canada bumped us from our flight. We had one night paid for in Heathrow, and compensation to the tune of more all of our car rental and more than one of our flights. Turned out to be one of the cheapest trips we could have taken! woot!

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Off to Prague

Spent last night at Green Gables B&B in Windermere, just at the library printing off our boarding passes- next stop, Prague!
If you want to check out our adventure yesterday, google "Walla Crag" (our hike) and "Hardknott Pass" (our drive). The lake district is beautiful and full of adventure!

Monday, October 22, 2012

Across the Peak

Well, we covered quite a bit of ground again today. I got up early this morning and went on a cold, foggy run along the banks of the Severn before breakfast. Shrewsbury was completely socked in- which kinds made it even more unreal. It was still foggy after breakfast when mom and i walked back in to check out the town. Half timbered buildings from the 16th and 17th centuries were the main feature, crowding the narrow High Street and Fish Streets. Many of the buildings from the 18th century on were of warm pink sandstone, including the abbey that was home to the Cadfael character. Unfortunately most of the abbey was destroyed by Henry VIII- when he went to wipe out the catholic church, that included all of the religious orders. Bummer.

From Shrewsbury we drove east through Newcastle and into the Peak district. Beautiful rocky hills with stone- fenced pastures full of sheep, cows, and the occasional pony. Mom wanted to see a stone circle called Arbor Low, but our hunger took us to a roadside restaurant called the Duke of York... delicious steak pie for me, a brie and veggie patty for mom - something like a cheese and veggie pastry pocket. Refreshed, we hike around arbor low and got back in the car and started driving north. 
Arbor Low stone circle, circa 2000 BC
I realized somewhere along the way that we were in the miserable half of Derbyshire, so we detoured to see Chatsworth house. That's Darcy's house, for those of you who have not seen the recent Pride and Prejudice. We arrived late and didn't go in, but the grounds were worth it by themselves! Film does not do the place justice. 

Now it's late and I'm becoming long winded, so in short we drove from there to York, had a snack at Hole in the Wall pub, and are crashing in preparation for a big day of York exploration tomorrow! 

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Across Wales: Caernarfon to Shrewsbury

There's nothing quite like waking up in a misty sea town. After a lovely breakfast at the Cartref Guest House, we headed out to the Isle of Anglesey and explored Beaumaris Castle. I knew it already thanks to the model in the Encarta Encyclopedia we had on our first PC when I was in middle school... but nothing is like actually walking through the gate and climbing to the top of the tower!
We said it was going to be our "castles and gardens" trip, so of course we followed up Beaumaris by driving through Bangor, Betws-y-Coed, and Llanwrst (beautiful walk near the woolen mill and stop in) on our way to Bodnant Garden. The colours were changing in the wilder gardens, and the formal gardens were pristine in their green.
Mum is camouflaged in her red coat!

Our route to shrewsbury was a little roundabout... we sort of routed ourselves through the middle of nowhere (oops) and enjoyed some rugged Welsh scenery before tucking into the Buck's Head Inn for dinner and a sleep :)
I may have fallen in love with Snowdonia NP...

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Wales - We have arrived!

Hi all, and greetings from Caernarfon in northwestern Wales. We had a relatively uneventful drive over from Manchester... If you don't count a few roundabout freak- outs on my part, a sprint to the wrong terminal at Heathrow, and a spontaneous stop in Conwy for a castle and coffee ( which was accompanied by local legends and history from our heavily tattooed, cross- dressing host Chrissie). Having a blast, but ready for some real sleep! 
Low Tide at Conwy

Hugs,
-b and Laurie

Breakfast!! or Brecwast, in Welsh :)