My second day in the Basque Country, Gurutze, Kike, and Jone took me on a driving tour of their part of the Basque Country. The car ride alone was worth flying across Europe- the roads wound around, over, and through mountains as green as I have ever seen and along a shoreline that made Chukanut look tame. Our first stops were Zarautz and Zumaia, two picture-perfect coastal towns in Gipuzkoa. We walked along the harbors and climbed the steep stone streets to enjoy stunning views over the Bay of Biscay and the coast. Each town has a stone harbor filled with Txalupak (small work boats) and a dockside that reminded me a bit of home. The cool, breezy weather meant that the sandy beaches were nearly deserted- they will be packed as the weather warms up!
Our drive back to Tolosa took us through Asteasu, which Kike explained to me was the home town of author Bernardo Atxaga. Part of his book Obabakoak (which Kike was surprised to hear that I had read- thanks, Em!) takes place driving to the fictional town of Obaba on the non-fictional mountain road to Asteasu. The journey and stone town were even better in reality than imagined from the story. Absolutely lovely!When we arrived back in Tolosa Jone and I were dropped off at a favorite kafétegia (café)/hang out spot for young people in Tolosa, where I learned a new version of BC from Jone and her friends before we walked over to their garage to hang out until dinner. (Click "read more"...)
Wednesday started with a trip into what Gurutze described as "deep Gipuzkoa," which fits the geographic location of Ordizia as much as the shade of green it is wrapped in. It was a market day and a festival for moving the sheep from town up to the summer pastures in the mountains. Sheep judging, roasts, cheeses, wool... and a huge covered market full of fresh produce! Gurutze's father was there selling his mushrooms, and insisted on taking a break to treat his daughter, granddaughter, and their guest to pintxos. Pintxos are a mid-day snack that most often consist of a pile of tasty ingredients held on a slice of baguette with a toothpick, although Jone's favorite variety is a tortilla (sort of like an omelette). Over the next few days I sampled more types than I would like to admit...
In the afternoon the three of us hiked up the mountain north of Tolosa. What a haul! Crazy steep, topped with rocky fields, a white cross, and a view. I even made a new friend on the way back down :) Back at the house, we immediately sat down on the living room floor and started stretching our abused leg muscles. Well, it's late in Vienna and my bed is calling... Mom and Dad arrived in Tolosa Wednesday night, but that will have to wait for tomorrow!
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