First day with the parents- Bizkaia

   Mom and Dad got in to Tolosa around 10 pm Wednesday evening, just in time for another dinner. Kike opened a bottle of local cider, which was shared over shrimp and a seafood and rice dish prepared by Gurutze (really, she is a fantastic chef!). After our meal, she and Jone took us over to Kike's sister's new house, which they had prepared for us to sleep at. We all crashed within a few minutes and slept like logs.
   Thursday morning launched another whirlwind tour of the basque country, this time in the province of Biskaia. We started with a visit to Gernika (Guernica), the historic seat of the Basque government which was bombed in 1937 by the Luftwaffe as a sort of pre-war target practice. Next, we walked through Bermeo and introduced Mom and Dad to pintxos and pelota. The sun was out and it seemed like most of the town with it- the waterfront park was packed. Kike hosts a show called MKLZ on the Basque television, so wherever we walked people would recognize him and stop to chat. I realized why the Amonarriz family goes to France for vacation!
   We drove a little ways along the coast from Bermeo for lunch, finally stopping at a place overlooking the mouth of the river that flows through Gernika. Rather than a muddy delta there was a wide, sandy beach with evenly breaking waves and aquamarine water. Kike and Gurutze insisted on treating us to lunch. I ordered a local dish made of little stuffed squid in a black ink/tomato sauce- I know that it sounds a little strange, but it was actually very very good! We decided that it was a little bit like Dad's steamed muscles in the northwest- the locals love it, but everyone else thinks they're crazy until they actually try it! We walked down to a nearby beach after lunch and explored a little harbor full of txalupas. Dad counted three boat launches and wanted to know why Anacortes couldn't have even one in town.

   The last stop on our tour was Bilbao, beginning with the Guggenheim. We didn't go through the museum, but everyone we talked to said that the best piece there was the building itself! We played around the sculptures outside and then walked along the river to the oldest part of town, where we had coffee in a square which at one time was an old bull ring. Compared to the other Basque towns, Bilbao is very cosmopolitan and just plain big- but it still had an Ikurrinia flying from the town hall (next to the Spanish flag, as required... although Tolosa gets away with only flying the Basque flag!).
   After dinner that night we went to a festival in nearby Lazkao and enjoyed some traditional music and dance. The central town square was set with a stage, lights, and great entertainment. The lead was on an accordian, accompanied by a bassist, drummer, a unique flute, and guitar/lute. The musicians were joined often by dancers. Fun fun!

bah, I am seriously behind- 1.5 days in Donostia yet to cover and then 2 in Vienna, and we have already been one day in Graz- I apologize for my long-windedness and promise to get caught up!