Tuesday, December 15, 2015

Another Christmas in Quebec City (aka, M. leaves the USA)

Almost a year ago I asked M if he would join me at my company's Christmas party in 2015. At that time, he didn't have a passport and was vehemently opposed to airplanes. True to his word, we touched down in Quebec together last Saturday. That left Sunday to explore the walled city before I had to go to work on Monday. (Apologies for the poor photo quality. All were taken on our phones!)

First Quebecois breakfast: Crepe! (we went back 2 more times...)

Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Bluer than blue (Puno)

I woke up in a reclined armchair as we rolled down the pre-morning streets of Puno. We had driven through the night, finally coming down the hill to Lake Titicaca. Our hostel owner didn't have our room ready, but he offered us a spot to crash on the couch, a rather good breakfast, and a place on a tour that left at 8am.  We piled on all the warm cloths we had and sleepily walked  down the quay to the waiting lines of boats. Pulling out of the marina, we cut slowly into the bay.


Our first glimpse of the floating islands

The first stop was at one of the Uros floating islands. The islanders have lived for thousands of years on these structures made of blocks of reed root covered in reed bundles and topped by reed houses. Most of the men and boys were out fishing and harvesting reeds with long, scythe-like poles. The elected "mayor" of the island greeted us with the women and girls, who showed off their embroidery and method of island building.



After a ride  on  a long, low reed boat we re-boarded our motorboat and went to the long rocky island of Taquile. Here, the men wear black pants with billowing white shirts and black vests in the Spanish colonial style. These are belted with colourful woven sashes and "Inca" hats with patterns that indicate status. A bag of cocoa leaves is tucked into the sash. The leaves are traded with friends as a  form of greeting when they meet on the paths. The women wear tasseled shawls, colourful for the girls and black with bright tasseled for the married women.

Hiking up the island.
It was so cold, I wore  a touque I had bought as a gift!

Both the men and women of Taquile weave and knit. A market in the main  square  sells their wares. 
We broke for lunch at a house on  the south end of the island. Our view extended over the huge lake, south  towards the high  mountains of Bolivia. We were served a delicious quinoa soup and a trout or tortilla  (omlette) on rice. 

Bolivia's Cordierra Real mountains on  the horizon.
They are over 20,000 ft  tall
Our companions came from Slovakia, Germany, South  Africa, and Catalunia

Quinoa soup



We finally re-boarded our boat and bucked a rough  headwind on  a zig-zagging course  back to Puno. Several of us sat on the deck, trading travel stories  and  discussing Basque/Catalunian/Spanish politics. Those of us who  were staying at the same hostel resolved to meet for dinner, where we  enjoyed another few hours of conversation (with the obligatory questions  about why Americans love guns) and delicious  Alpaca and Cuy.

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

No Jumping Allowed!! (Machu Picchu)

The one that everyone asks about when you go to Peru: Did you visit Machu Picchu? Of course we did!

Saturday, September 19, 2015

"We leave when the bus is full," and other travelling lessons

One of the first things I noticed about Peru wasn't its architecture, or its food, or its smell. It was the traffic. At 8pm it was worse than downtown Paris, with even less space to maneuver. Peruvians don't drive exclusively with their horns, but they could not drive without them, either. Besides the constant beeps and beep-beeps (there is a difference), we also had to be wary of "unofficial" taxis, stoplight robbery, and getting on a Colectivo that was leaving soon(ish). It took us a little while to figure the system out.

official taxi, or "pirate" cab? (photo by Jone)

Monday, September 14, 2015

Cusco and Really Big Rocks

After a terrifying drop down to sea level (think switchbacks on a narrow road in the front seats of a double-decker tour bus), we finally arrived in Lima. A short overnight there and we were back at the airport for our next destination: Cusco!

Saturday, September 12, 2015

Huaraz high

We were more than ready to get out of the big city after our first day there. Luke had recommended that we dodge the regular tourist route and visit Huaraz, a maintain adventure town in the middle of the Cordilleras Blanca. Our overnight bus turned into the sleepy town just as dawn was coming up over the snow capped peaks of the razor sharp Cordilleras. 



Monday, September 7, 2015

Barrios de Lima


Peru!! Jone and I are finally on our trip... And finally bought a camera cable so we can share more than just the photos from her phone. 

Photo by Jone