Victorian Christmas

Our family Christmas present from Oma and Opa this year was a two-night escape to one of my favorite little cities: Victoria, BC. We hopped on the ferry on Sunday afternoon from Tsawassen to Schwartz Bay. At Active Pass, we were so close to shore that we could see individual Christmas lights on the island houses.

As we unpacked in Victoria, Mom pulled out a surprise. A Christmas mug for each of us, wrapped in very cute aprons, and a whole box of our traditional sugar cookies with frosting! Normally the four of us would have frosted them weeks ago, but being all over the country means we almost missed out entirely. The evening was spent watching How to Train your Dragon and ingesting… er, sampling… copious amounts of sugary goodness.

In the morning we walked around the inner harbour to breakfast at Shine Cafe. It was cute, crowded, and wonderful. We were all rather ravenous and chilly from teh brisk breeze (not complaining, though - it held the clouds at bay!), and after a few cups of coffee, our wonderful breakfasts arrived. Omelettes, hashes, and for me, a full UK breakfast with mushrooms, toasted tomato, banger, eggs, and a delicious blood pudding!

The rest of our morning had no agenda, and we meandered into quilt shops, Murchie’s tea and coffee, Munro’s Books, finishing our Christmas shopping. Our wander back home took us through the Empress, where we checked out the festive Christmas trees, and into Parliament, where they had the biggest Christmas tree yet.

In the afternoon we had a girls date: West Coast High Tea at the Grand Pacific Hotel. It was so much fun to sit around, without distractions, and catch up with Mumsy and the sisters! It was dark when Dad picked us up and we walked to our horse drawn carriage for a Christmas light bedazzled tour of downtown.

Between rounds of NERTS (the sisters skunked me), dad prepped the enchiladas. In the morning he was up early to make our favorite Huevos Rancheros. Before we got on the Sidney ferry bound for Anacortes, Mom took us by her old apartment and the UVic (University of Victoria) campus.

Southern Christmas

There are so many things that have made it feel less like Christmas time over the past few weeks. Being a long way from home means no holiday baking, no Christmas light scouting in PJ's, and not even snowflakes cut for the windows (Justin says he "doesn't really do those").

Charleston, though, has some serious Christmas spirit. The old market is overcome by ornaments and people hunting for last-minute gifts. South of Broad looks like it came straight out of the December edition of Southern Living. Evergreen swags, lights in the windows, and red-bowed wreaths on virtually every door.

 

The gas lights on houses have turned from summer evening fireflies to golden Christmas candles flickering through their little glass windows. Even the greens peeking around garden gates in little courtyards seem to have been dipped in the magic.

The one Christmas tradition that has followed me to Charleston - courtesy of my most amazing, creative, and wonderful mother, is the advent calendar she sent me in Charleston. I'll let you guess what was tucked in the little origami boxes... All I can say is there aren't any left! 

Another introduction to Charleston

Thanksgiving has come and gone, and with it Jim has returned to HQ in Washington. In his place, the engineering department sent a recently graduated design engineer named Justin. I feel bad for the new guy because I've already done most of the "explore Charleston" things that make newcomers fall in love with the city. Still, we went downtown last weekend to walk the Battery and see the beautiful houses on their flagstone walks. 

The character of the long, narrow houses with their spacious but hidden backyards always makes me feel warm and happy. Every once in a while, you even get to make a new friend. Like Lucy, who keeps an eye on the neighborhood (and all of its tennis balls). 

As we turned the corner on the battery, Charleston graced us with one of its stunning sunsets over the Ashley river. 

We ended the evening eating at the patio bar of the Blind Tiger on Broad street. The highlight of the meal was our chat with the soft spoken, bow tie wearing southern gentleman who sat next to us. As we got up to leave, he wished us a very sweet "wehl-cum tuh Chaahl-stun."

Thanksgiving Surprise!

It isn't easy to keep secrets in the Fakkema family. The Moms are members of the underground network we've labeled the Syndicate, the Dads keep each other in the loop, and Oma keeps an eye over everything. I was so excited when work offered to fly me home for thanksgiving and I was able to take Auntie KK  up on her offer to make it a surprise (we still call her that, even though all of us can now pronounce Carolyn).

I got to Blaine on Wednesdsay night and was waiting when Mom, Dad, Oma, and Opa arrived. Uncle Dale makes the best blackened turkey, and there was too much pie and cake and whipped cream to follow (hope I still make my bet with Jim!). Ana and I got to decorate two trees the day after Thanksgiving, including the traditional hall-decking at Opa and Oma's house on the Island. Our drive down there also occasioned a stop by the cabin I am thinking of buying - 600sf of cedar-sided, craftsman cuteness in the old family apple orchard!

The weekend ended with a walk home from spending the evening with old high school friends at the pub... some things will never change ;) Early the next morning, Marcus drove me back to the airport and I was on my way back to Chucktown...

Bridesmaids

Sometimes there are friends you don't see for years on end but somehow stay close to.  Anne and I were both asked to be bridesmaids in Erin's wedding, which meant me flying home from Charleston (via Tulsa) and Anne flying in from Germany. We timed our flights to arrive at SeaTac  a few hours apart, with Erin coming in on the Bolt Bus a few hours later. Marcus chauffeured us back to Anacortes. We girls chattered nonstop the entire way home, through a stop at the church, and foosball at the pub - until those of us who were suffering jet lag collapsed.

I love these girls!

The next few days are a swirl of laying up carbon fiber, flowers, dinner with friends, shopping, coffee, rehearsals, catching up, hanging out... all things wonderful and home-y. Anne and I decided that we each need a house, one in Germany and one in Washington. Maybe we'll support it by opening a consulting company that does intercultural business training for German and American companies, or companies that do business in both places :)

Erin and John's wedding was on Saturday. Anne introduced me to Store Grocery muffins for breakfast, and then we were off at a breakneck pace to prep, preen, photo, and get in line. The bride was beautiful, the groom was handsome, and bridesmaids and groomsmen were looking sharp. The reception had good food and so many old friends... After the newlyweds escaped and the cleanup was finished, three of us wandered back home for a hot tub and Dad's Basque-style cider (yum!!) and a movie that we didn't make it half way through. Perfect exhaustion!

I think I had the handsomest date there :)

Anne and I both flew out the following Monday. We aren't totally sure when we'll see each other again, but plans are in the works for an escapade on her side of the pond next summer. After all, now it's my turn to visit!

Tulsa Stopover

I was priviledged to fly home in November for my good friend Erin's wedding, getting to have my friend Anne from Germany stay with me (and be a bridesmaid, too!), and have a stopover with my extended family in Tulsa. Does it get any better?

Luke picked me up in that same old beat up Ford Ranger we rolled in high school. From there, it was the same old routine - cook with C, play with Miss Magoo, shoot guns, plan for when everyone moves back to the beautiful Northwest, build a wood storage rack in the backyard out of stuff stacked in the backyard, walk with Cabree...

There's something beautiful about being with family. The feeling of hanging up your everyday mask at the door, slipping into your lazy day sweats and not brushing your hair, and being free to casually toss your dreams and ambitions against the steady sounding boards of people who truly know you.

Luke and Miss Magoo - I wish I would have waited a second and gotten C in the photo!

a Sunday Drive up the coast

Today I learned that there is a reason that we are always going south to Savannah or east to Georgia, rather than up the coast. I heard all about Myrtle Beach from people in NYC, but really wasn't sure why it was so special... the beaches in Charleston are pretty cool, right?

So, we started driving north. One stop in Georgetown for watery coffee, and on the road again.

Georgetown Waterfront

Turns out, Charleston beaches are missing one thing. Glam. Glitz. Bling. That sun-bleached, faded out, echo of last decade's flare. The entire town had that overwhelming feeling of being worn out by people who were there to use it for their week of excess and then discard it.

Not to say that we didn't enjoy it... not even overt consumerism can ruin that wonderful feeling of barefoot wanders on the strand.

Bright lights, Big city

Wow. What a weekend.

I am decompressing at the airport, waiting for my flight back to Charleston from New York City. Steph, who adopted me into her family when I was in Michigan, invited me to visit her in the Big City for a few days. I had a Delta flight credit and a free weekend. Easy decision, eh?

Friday co-worker Jim dropped me off at CHS. By dinner time I was boarding a bus with a couple of Catalan tourists for downtown. We said Adios at Lexington Ave, where I grabbed the 6 train for the Upper East Side. Steph's boyfriend, Dave, has an apartment (with a very comfortable guest room) in that super sweet neighborhood. Everything you could want within a few blocks. We grabbed burgers at Bareburger and shot some pool at the East End. We were falling asleep by the end of the movie we put on when we got home, and collapsed into bed by midnight. Do you know what a treat it was to sleep without air conditioning? I don't remember the last time I slept so well!

Welcome to Grand Central!

Blurry, but you can kinda see the cool constellations on the ceiling!

After breaking our fast, Steph and I headed to midtown via Grand Central Station. I had the strongest feeling of adventure walking through the halls, like each marble arch we passed had the potential to bring me to a new world. Magical. We met back up with Dave at the PWC office (he volunteers with a mentoring program on Saturday mornings) and he and Steph showed me the skyline from their office, complete with a glimpse of the statue of liberty through the downtown skyline. After lunch with some of Dave's mentoring team we wandered past the library and Rockefeller plaza to Times Square. 

There were masses of people waiting for show tickets, in lines for matinees, waiting to cross the street, waiting for the stage in the middle to be occupied by Korean martial artists... people everywhere. We ditched the crowd and found an Irish pub (actually run by Irishwomen!) to watch the Michigan game.

5 minutes later we were cheering on the Blue and Maize :)

Dinner was at a wonderful Mexican restaurant called Mole. I didn't come close to finishing the delicious pot of grilled meats and veggies - pork, pollo, carne asada, cactus- put in front of me. Next time i visit, I'll treat it as a challenge and not let it best me ;-) it was a short walk back to Dave's place, and once again we we dozed off watching a movie.

a Walk in the Park

I appreciated the lazy Sunday start to the day, dozing in the cool and quiet before pulling myself together and heading to breakfast at the Mansion (more like brunch by the time we rolled in ;). We took coffee to go and wandered through Carl Shurz Park on the east river, then up to Central Park. If there's any place to really get an idea of how big just Manhattan is, wandering the beautiful park in the center of town is it. The colours were just starting to change, children were running around on the playgrounds, miniature sailboats were zipping over the sailing pond... all while horse drawn carriages and rickshaws and runners zipped along the highways. It felt so livable,a sort of living room for the city. People out enjoying each others company on a cool fall day. Absolutely perfect.

Sailboats on the pond

From Columbus Circle at the south end of the park we made our way to glitzy 5th Ave. Steph pointed out the Tiffany's as we wandered by, and I felt as giddy as Holly Golightly. By the time we made it back home, there was enough time for me to check my gate, shift some gear, and secure my rucksack. Steph and Dave walked me to the bus stop and helped me with my ticket ,then hugs goodbye for my wonderful hosts and i was flying solo once again. A bit of time here at the airport, then south bound and down...

I see why so many people love this city. It doesn't compare to anywhere I've been before, and I look forward to spending more time here on my next visit... hopefully sooner rather than later :-)

Sisters visit!

My sisters' birthday presents this year were tickets for a weekend in Charleston. The best part? Smalls (the youngest) didn't know that Em (middle) was coming! Em doesn't much like surprises, so it couldn't be a double surprise ;)

Anyways, I left campus a little early on Friday to pick Smalls up from the airport. She crashed for a sleep cycle or two at Hotel House while I finished up work. By the time she was showered, we were both rather ravenous. BBQ was in order! Off to Sullivan's Island for some Home Team. After inhaling mountains of pulled pork in mustard bbq sauce, we wandered our way to Fort Moultrie and the beach. It really wasn't the greatest weekend for history lovers to be in Chucktown, since all federal sites (Sumter and Moultry included) were shut down along with the rest of the government. We still saw the fort - and one of the mines that once protected the harbor!

We walked back from the south tip of the island along the beach. It was a beautiful day, especially for two girls looking forward to winter in the rainy PNW!

From Sullivan's Island, we swung by Shem Creek for another view of the Low Country.

finally, we made it to downtown and heard BlueBilly Grit, Cranford Hollow, and the Grasscals at Charleston Music Hall. They were all a lot of fun - it was the sort of concert where you just lose track of time. Where BBG and the Grascals were more traditional bluegrass, Crandford Hollow was Americana. They presented some of their "Low Country Stomp," which had the entire audience bouncing in their seats.
The night finally ended at midnight when we picked up Em (surprising Smalls!) at the airport. Well, it would have ended... we spent the next 2-3 hours catching up ;)

No rest for the weary... Boone Hall first thing in the morning! The Avenue of Oaks should look familiar if you've seen Gone with the Wind...

As beautiful as the house was, the best part of the visit (IMHO) was the Gullah presentation at one of the old brick slave cabins. Our introduction to the culture of the Gullah Geechee corridor had us all enthralled by the rhythm of its oral tradition and singing along with gospel songs. It also made us appreciate how "high on the hog" we were living for the weekend!

Our timing was just right for a walk through the market before catching a ride through town with two new long-eared, four-hooved friends. Charleston on Saturday afternoon is alive with tourists soaking in the architecture and history and sunshine and good food.

Walking towards St Philip's Episcopal Church.

the Calhoun Mansion

After our carriage tour, we went back and meandered our favorite spots on foot. I love the cobbled streets and wrought iron gates in Charleston, from Longitude Ln to Chalmer's north of Broad. In between we visited Goat. Sheep. Cow., a mecca of cheeses and cured meats (and possibly Smalls' new favorite store). 

In the evening we enjoyed a wonderful meal at Slightly North of Broad (SNoB) and a nighttime wandering of the pier. And gelato. You can't forget the gelato. 

Sunday was low-key, with a short wander of King St. and another stop for BBQ before shipping the Sisters back West. All in all, it was an amazing weekend, with almost enough sister time to hold us 'till Christmas!

Pumpkins!

For evidence that summer is over, look no further than the mounds of orange squash that have invaded every storefront. To celebrate the change of seasons, my coworker and I replaced our usual midweek trip downtown with pumpkin carving at Hotel House.

My carvings had a sort of theme- think I might have a little  fernweh (wanderlust)? I wish I had a photo of Jim's Darth Vader pumpkin to share with you...so cool!!

As much fun as carving pumpkins is, it gets even better! Pumpkin seeds are one of my favorite snacks. Before and after roasting, right and left. I followed the recipe from this blog, and they turned out perfect. Boil in saltwater first- who knew??

Helen Hiking and Oktoberfest

Charleston is nice, but I have yet to find a place in it that you can't hear machines. So this weekend I drug my co-worker away to the mountains :)

The Appalachian Trail is about 5 hours drive away from Charleston where we picked it up in Northern Georgia. We parked and hiked from Andrews Cove to where it T's with the AT, and then out to a view. The humidity did a number on both Jim and myself- we were puffing worse than normal for the first mile or so. A break on a piece of exposed granite with a view of the hills marked our half-way point and turn around. Granola bars gave us the sugar we needed to power the way down. Round trip, we did about 7 miles of blissfully quiet hiking up and down the hills.

White line = on-track!

We hit the Helen Oktoberfest in the afternoon/evening. Helen is the East Coast's answer to Leavanworth (hey, WA did it first!). It's mocked up as a Bavarian village, and attracts thousands from Atlanta and across the Southeast for Oktoberfest, which goes from mid-September to the end of October. While not exactly as alpine as it claims, the hills and the Chattahoochee River are still beautiful. 

Ja!

A meal of Gulash, Spaetzle, and Wurst was a relief after driving and hiking all day - and it came with an amazing view of the Biergarten in the middle of town. Entertainment galore! Later in the evening we joined the festivities by ordering biers of our own and sharing the long picnic tables with other revelers. Jim likes people-watching almost as much as I do, so we enjoyed our evening immensely. 

Prost!

Before driving back this morning, we hit up one more quick hike. It's only a mile each way to Dukes Creek Falls, just outside of Helen. The falls were lovely!

 

I left wishing I could have driven the rest of the Richard B Russel scenic highway. It made me think of Keith Urban's song Who Wouldn't Wanna be Me. "The sun is shinin' and the road keeps windin,' through the prettiest country from Georgia to Tennessee..."

Czechs and Austrians visit the PNW

Being home is sweet - having friends from around the world visiting at home is wonderful!

WA Park Sunset

Smalls picked me up from PDX (Portland airport) on Saturday and brought me down to her new apartment at George Fox. From GF I buzzed south in the 'Ru to meet Ulli (short for Ulrike) at Willamette. Ulli had been my "Tandem" in Graz through a program set up by the language center. We met once a week at a coffee shop to practice our English and German. When I left Graz, I really didn't expect to see Ulli again unless I somehow made it to Austria in the next year or two... and then she decided to study abroad at Willamette! We caught up on life over heaping bowls of Froyo :)

The next morning Smalls dropped me off with Petra and Jan (who I had previously visited in Glacier) in Portland. We drove through rain and traffic to drizzly Seattle. We ended up taking cover and eating Other Coast Cafe sandwiches with a friend from A-town until the rain let up. It was almost nice when the three of us made it to the Chittenden Locks. Petra and I got a good laugh out of how big Jan's eyes got when he saw all the Coho in the fish ladder. Priceless!
In the evening we walked in to downtown and met Mom and Dad at Benihana for Dad's birthday dinner. Yum!

Monday I drove down to Whidbey after work, had dinner at Penn Cove, and met Petra and Jan when they came up from Seattle on the ferry. In the morning we hiked the bluff at Ebey, picnicked next to the guns at Ft Casey, and wandered Coupeville. I'm starting to think that maybe I do want a cabin in San de Fuca long-term...

Tuesday evening, Dad cooked up a seafood feast that fueled us through paddleboarding the next morning.

Pros! And their seal friend on the right

the Mountain is out!

Dad took Petra and Jan fishing off North Beach in the afternoon, and I was home in the evening just in time to join my friends for the sunset at WA Park. The next morning, we had to say goodbye... with many promises of future visits!